I've written up a few of the Ballycroft wines on the blog, saving this Mataro for last. In late March 2010, Joe and Susan Evans - along with a few friends - tenderly picked just shy of 300KG of fruit from Ballycroft's 300 Mataro vines. The vines were planted in 2000, so were at ten years of age as of this vintage, an age where it's generally regarded you want vines to be in order to have started outing down good roots.
The wine was pumped over 4 times a day for 11 days, seeking good - but gentle - extraction of flavour, colour and tannin. Did it work?
Opens with some of the usual suspects: touch of damp earth, black cherry and a licorice high-hat. Hints of Indian sandalwood in the mix, touched up by a note of citrus rind. Deep, aromatically complex - yet familiar, comforting in amongst the heady aromas. It settles a little over two days, still possessing depth, with black fruit more prominent and hints of coffee/ mocha revealing themselves.
Thick, slick and glossy initially. Possibly a little too much so. Get over it, be consumed by the spice that begins its familiar march across the palate: brown spice, hints of all-spice, mere suggestions of clove. Again, these more forward elements subside over time, secondarily we see hints of freshening citrus along with juicy plum and black cherry.
Tannin is fine, barely a mouth-coating; spice and other savoury elements form the initial impression at the wine's conclusion. It's a lengthy embrace, memorable, and I would agree with the winemaker's assessment of a 5 year drinking window. 92
Tasted on: Friday 6th September, a Root Day
Source: Sample
Price: $?
Alcohol: 13.75%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.ballycroft.com/
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