At nine years of age, this still has the spring of youth in its step. Made for the long haul, picked accordingly, and so I subsequently learned modelled on Hunter Semillon.
That aromatic freshness is there from the first ball: citrus, particularly lemon with hints of blossom, preserved lemons and wax. Delve a little deeper to reveal a little nutty, pithy, fibrous edge - fresh ginger, galangal perhaps.
Bracing acidity, fore and aft, flowing through the wine - Timothy Francis Leary would have fun with this. In my notes I wrote that it was almost Riesling-esque, a fair comment on reflection. It's not so much the honeyed, nutty Marsanne that you might be used to. But do understand this: it's an incredible wine, built for the long haul and quite remarkable to be offered to market at just shy of a decade old.
Finishing fine and long, you'd have to be a bit of an acid head to appreciate it now, but at nine years old it is a mere pup. 95
Tasted on: Thursday 26th September, a Flower Day
Source: Sample
Price: $46.95
Alcohol: 11%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.tahbilk.com.au/
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