March 2017 ~ The Vinsomniac - Stuart Robinson

Friday, 31 March 2017

Angullong Fossil Hill Barbera 2015

14:30 Stu.

Barbera is an unusual one, finding it's home in Italy's Piedmont, it can also be found in pockets amongst a diverse range of Australian wine regions, from Queensland, through to Vic's King Valley and so on. This example from Orange in NSW sees 20% whole berries and 25% of the wine sees French oak. All up that says it should primarily be about fruit, little oak. It doesn't disappoint.

Bright, floral, woody hints sit underneath. Suggestion of sweeter spice in the mix. Nice balance.

Med-full, of body soft and pillowy entry; tannin is fine -grained and powdery tannin, gentle acid - served this with a lamb shank ragu and it just lapped it up, the wine even lifting its game with the food. Cracking match IMO.

Reasonable length. As a stand-alone beverage I'm expecting more, with food (as served) it just lifted its game and i think it all the better for it 92/90 (with/out).

Tasted on: Tuesday 28th March, a Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $26
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.angullong.com.au/

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2015 / Barbera / Orange

La Bise Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2016

08:30 Stu.

Gently spiced, apple and skins.

Textural, powdery, even talcum like. Bruised apple on the back palate. Decent finish - carrying that apple long. 90

Tasted on: Wednesday 7th December, a Flowerday
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 13.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://labisewines.com.au

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2016 / Adelaide Hills / Pinot Gris

Toolangi Pinot Noir 2015

08:30 Stu.

There are three classifications of wines within the Toolangi portfolio: 'Toolangi', Estate and Reserve. Different blocks off the vineyard receive different viticultural inputs, here the 'Toolangi' Pinot Noir is cropped marginally higher than that for the Estate range, more about stylistic intent than anything.

Toolangi employs full time viti staff to get its sites and fruit into top condition, opting not to employ full time winemakers, instead they contract winemaking for specific wines out to leading winemakers around the region, and sometimes beyond, an approach akin to something like a vinous supergroup. Here Yering Station's Willy Lunn is at the helm.

Anyway, 10m in French barriques, of which 10% are new. The site - Dixon's Creek - is on a north-easterly orientation, predominantly clay with a thin shale topsoil. Summary: marginally higher cropping, little oak, expect primacy of fruit here.

It's particularly expressive with an impressive range of black fruit emanating from the glass. Think black and sour cherry, and something like macerated strawberry. Bright, fragrant.

More of the same on the palate. Deliciously mid-weight, bright and juicy, those fruit flavours burst energetically across the palate, bright acidity bringing a halt to proceedings and making the introduction of some fine grain tannin.

Just has a gorgeous weight, carry and presence about it. 92

Tasted on: Wednesday 29th March, a Leaf to Fruit day
Source: Sample
Price: $28
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.toolangi.com/

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2015 / pinot noir / Yarra Valley

Thursday, 30 March 2017

K1 by Geoff Hardy Middle Hill Shiraz 2015

14:30 Stu.

Speaks of fruit and of savoury notes at once. Of juicy, plump black fruit backed up with savoury hedgerow, possible whole bunch inclusion (5-10% tops). It's elegant, cool, bordering on a little smokiness.

Medium bodied, silken threaded, chains of gossamer thread tannin link across the palate carrying the fruit swaddles, savoury elements. Such a consistent wine (previous notes here). 91

Tasted on: Wednesday 30th November, a Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.winesbygeoffhardy.com.au/

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2015 / Adelaide Hills / Shiraz

Pig in the House Shiraz 2016

08:30 Stu.

Smells every inch its youthful, primary self. Berry driven, hints of spice, I might even suggest it comes off of sandy soil - I could be wrong, it sometimes happens - it just has that very expressive nature I often see in sandy sites.

More of the same on the palate. It delivers a fair mouthful of flavour that's persistent in nature. Touches of tannin, aniseed even. Goes well. 89

Tasted on: Monday 28th November, a Flower to Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 14.6%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.piginthehouse.com.au/

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#Organic / 2016 / Cowra / Shiraz

Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Shaw Vineyard Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2015

16:30 Stu.

Post tasting formalities, this was fair demolished round our way. Whilst my formal 'critique' doesn't rate this as a classically good wine, consumption of it spoke otherwise and just goes to show that a rating does not necessarily equate to drinkability.

Citrus and some guava-esque fleshy tropicals.

Somewhat faint in its flavour profile, yet it offers great refreshment in a dilute lemon cordial manner. Has a little herbal twang towards its back end and it doesn't quite carry the flavour.

Good going served fridge cold as something of an aperitif. 86

Tasted on: Monday 28th November, a Flower to Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $16
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.shawvineyards.com.au/

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2015 / Canberra District / Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon

Airlie Bank Cabernet Franc 2016

11:33 Stu.

A recent trip to the Yarra Valley had me yearning for some of the alternative varieties that are on the rise there. Whilst known for the excellence of those Burgundian stalwarts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it's often the road less travelled that excites me!

Airlie Bank is a secondary label for Punt Road, which just seems to be excelling under the watchful eye of head winemaker Tim Shand. However, a visit to their Cellar Door left me reeling in disappointment for, such is the popularity of this wine, it has already sold out. That's where excellent Healvesville based retailer Barrique stepped in.

So, here we have 100% whole bunch Cabernet Franc, "blended and bottled in its youth to capture its juvenile vibrancy". Need I say more!

The bunch work lends it that stemmy, herbal, briary air. The palate shows further complexity: a mix of sarsaparilla fruit and the savoury bent that derives from the judicious use of stems. Towards the back end of the wine is a licorice twist that carries presence long across the palate.

A long bow, excellent savoury penetration. 92

Tasted on: Monday 27th Match, a Flower to Leaf day
Source: Retail, Barrique
Price: $22
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://puntroadwines.com.au

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2016 / Cabernet Franc / Yarra Valley

Thursday, 23 March 2017

Pacha Mama Riesling 2015

11:07 Stu.

Somewhat daft name IMO, supposedly inspired by a trip to Chile and named after an Incan goddess. Perhaps showing my age, but it sounds more like it was named after a young strumpet who conceived at an Ibizan nightclub.

Made by winemaking legend Don Lewis.

Refined lime and pith, certainly expresses itself sufficiently, if somewhat mute.

Refreshes the gills (parts other beers cannot reach), grapefruit and lemon, citrus acidity. Minerally, tangy. Lacks a little substance. Crowd pleasing, if you like.

Reasonable length. 89

Tasted on: Sunday 19th March, a Leaf day
Source: Retail
Price: $19.50
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: www.wineunplugged.com.au

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2015 / Central Victoria / riesling

Wednesday, 22 March 2017

Windowrie The Mill Shiraz 2015

14:30 Stu.

Won top gong at the NSW Wine Awards.

Cloven spice, herbal, fresh and fragrant. Smells at once both serious, yet also playful and inviting.

Mid-weight, more of the herb and spice laid out across the palate. The spice if anything, builds further. Some drying tanning provides extra carriage to this.

Great value. Pretty serious given the pricepoint. 92

Tasted on: Sunday 27th November, a Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.windowrie.com.au/

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2015 / Cowra / Shiraz

La Bise Adelaide Hills Tempranillo 2014

08:30 Stu.

New-ish label from Tash Mooney (ex-Fox Gordon and BVE) flying solo and gaining some traction and following. Deservedly.

Tobacco, Blueberry, Vanilla, cherry compote. Good Tempranillo thus far.

Elegant, medium bodied manifestation of a Wine. Hints of oak. But really about a good sense of flavour, red fruit with a little sour tang to it.

Great price for a good Tempranillo. 89

Tasted on: Saturday 26th November, a Root to Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://labisewines.com.au

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2014 / Adelaide Hills / Tempranillo

Tuesday, 21 March 2017

K1 Brut NV

16:30 Stu.

Distinct blush on pour, not labelled a Rosè and yet you'd be hard to call it anything but.

Underlying wild strawberry with bready, brioche hints sitting above.

Strawberry, red berry fruits across the palate - a touch more sweetness present. Clean, a fine minerality - carrying the fruit presence, a good presence. 90

Tasted on: Saturday 26th November, a Root to Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: DIAM
Website: http://www.winesbygeoffhardy.com.au/

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Adelaide Hills / Chardonnay / NV / pinot noir / Sparkling

Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2015

13:05 Stu.

An impressive site, and sight, the Tiers Vineyard. Planted back in Brian Croser's beloved Picadilly Valley back in 1979. If you're ever in the Hills, do ensure you take time to visit the cellar door and soak in the view back toward the drive you came down.

Peach, figgy, cashew, cream and spice

Lots going on with a palate presence that builds and builds. Meyer lemon, creamy presence, spicy oak. It has nuttiness, a texture, presence, a lingering significance that seems to just give.

Acidity is balanced, yet it still needs time to settle. That said, It's an impressive wine. 93

Tasted on: Thursday 24th November
Source: Sample
Price: $79
Alcohol: 13.6%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://tapanappa.com.au

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2015 / Adelaide Hills / Chardonnay / Single Vineyard

Monday, 13 March 2017

Mount Avoca Lagrein 2015

08:30 Stu.

Back in August 2016, Mount Avoca received organic accreditation across its entire winemaking progress. This applies to eight wines - that can be officially marked as organic - including this Limited Release Lagrein.

Baked raspberry, cherry, plum. Italianate herbal tinges.

Fresh, supple, on entry - surges in the mouth, assertive and grainy tannin leads to some back palate bitterness.

Acid freshens, resumes proceedings, leading long threads of fruits, spice and herb with it. Superb. 92

Tasted on: Wednesday 23rd November
Source: Sample
Price: $46
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://mountavoca.com/

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#Organic / 2015 / Lagrein / Pyrenees

Sunday, 12 March 2017

Rob Hall Harriet's Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015

08:30 Stu.

Harriet being (winemaker) Rob Hall's Mother, who has taken to caring for, and nurturing, this vineyard planted on the property back in 1996.

Savoury elements hint at selective whole bunch inclusion (5%), with plenty of fruit including cherry and rosehip making up the balance of aromas.

Barest hint of undissolved CO2 lends a little vibrancy and energy to proceedings. Minerality, flinty pebble, spice. A little texture across the back palate, excellent mouthfeel. 92

Tasted on: Tuesday 7th March, a Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $40
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: www.robhallwine.com.au

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2015 / pinot noir / Yarra Valley

Saturday, 11 March 2017

Katnook Founder's Block Chardonnay Pinot Noir Sparkling NV

08:30 Stu.

Coonawarra bubbles, an 80/20 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir respectively.

Baked goods, stonefruit preserve, a little honeyed edge. Soft entry, segues to a gentle minerality. Buttery pastry, nicely balanced against fruit/subtle savoury.

Gentle crispness, snaps to a finish. 89

Tasted on: Sunday 20th November
Source: Sample
Price: $23
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: DIAM
Website: www.katnookestate.com.au

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Chardonnay / Coonawarra / NV / pinot noir / Sparkling

Friday, 10 March 2017

Mount Avoca Limited Release Sangiovese 2015

08:30 Stu.

Berry aromatics - lifted spice and herbal tinges. I served this too warm which accentuated spirited notes on the aromatic profile.

Soft, rounded palate - hints of vanilla gently introduce themselves on what turns out to be a rather long, spice tinged finish. Berry flavours re-introduce themselves, with a tug o’ war back and forth with the vanilla.

Good length, plenty about it, spice to the death. Great going. 91

Tasted on: Friday 18th November
Source: Sample
Price: $47.50
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://mountavoca.com/

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2015 / Pyrenees / sangiovese

Thursday, 9 March 2017

Miraflores Methode Ancienne Syrah 2012

11:00 Stu.

Miraflores is located up in California's Sierra Foothills, in the original gold rush country. About 2.5 hours from San Francisco, just a little further east of state capital Sacramento, the Tuscan inspired winery seems a million miles from that tech-centric global icon.

'Methode Ancienne' here in the wine's title simply refers to less intensive methods of winemaking, wild yeast fermented, foot trod etc

Shows initial hit of funk, settles: spice, sandalwood, perhaps a little camphor.

Medium bodied, cocoa-powder tannin, meaty with some brambley black and red fruit. Acid spikes a little toward the back end. Decent length. 91

Tasted on: Wednesday 9th November
Source: Cellar Door Purchase
Price: $30 (US$)
Alcohol: 14.1%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://www.mirafloreswinery.com

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2012 / California / El Dorado / Fair Play / Syrah / USA

Wednesday, 8 March 2017

Hither & Yon Petit Blanc 2016

14:30 Stu.

McLaren Vale Muscat Blanc á Petit Grains (to be precise), that was grafted from Riesling in '81.

An expressly aromatic wine that carries Rosewater clearly, a little muskiness with softer tropical aromatics linger furtively.

Gentle entry, with acid that shakes things up. Citrus abounds here: grapefruit, zest, a little like perhaps. Clean and refreshing. Clears things up.

Tasted on: Tuesday 22nd November
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 11.7%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.hitherandyon.com.au/

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2016 / McLaren Vale / Muscat Blanc

d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2013

08:30 Stu.

d'Arenberg's 2013 icon releases have been a stunning return to form. Whilst previous releases (see: Ironstone Pressings, Coppermine Road, Dead Arm) have been good, they - for me - have not quite nudged the Very Good/ Excellent realms. I've oft wondered - and as excellent as the initiative is - what impact Scarce Earth bottlings may have had on these icon releases.

This is good, very good. Ironstone, earth; sanguine, plum, blackcurrant, herb inflected, ferrous - almost wild. The tannin structure - impressive, dominating from the middle third. Oak is present, carrying licorice to its conclusion. Just give it time. 94

Tasted on: Wednesday 2nd November, a Leaf day

Source: Sample
Price: $65
Alcohol: 14.6%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/

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2013 / McLaren Vale / Shiraz

Tuesday, 7 March 2017

Huntington Estate Semillon 2016

14:30 Stu.

Lemon sherbet/barley aromatics, dried grass/straw. Semillon's calling card.

Quite a subtle interpretation. Yes there's acid on the back, not quite the electrifying, battery acid oft seen in many examples.

There's a little textural nuance through the middle, a little freeness, flow, and form. Length is decent, doesn't set the palate afire, but suitably freshens. 88

Tasted on: Monday 21st November
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 11.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://huntingtonestate.com.au/

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2016 / Mudgee / Semillon

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava Heredad

08:30 Stu.

Wingara was formed in 1967 and is the Parent company of brands like famed Coonawarra producer Katnook. Wingara is itself owned by Spanish producer Freixenet, the world's largest sparkling winemaker!

This Reserva - resplendent in a Gothic inspired bottle - sits on lees for two and half years, it pours a pale straw, with decent focal bead and a light mousse. Pear, citrus, autolytic character.

Somewhat firm palate, hard minerality, dry, grapefruit acidity. Long on the finish, would perhaps look for greater finesse at the asking price. 91

Tasted on: Wednesday 2nd November, a Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $50
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://www.wingara.com.au/

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Cava / Macabeo / NV / Spain / Sparkling

Monday, 6 March 2017

Hither & Yon Shiraz 2016

18:57 Stu.

McLaren Vale Shiraz with a cheeky 6% Malbec - the first crop for the H&Y team after planting a hectare back in 2014 - added in to the equation.

Very expressive, leaps from the glass in a very 'purple' explosion of flavour: cassis, violets, veering to a little choc-wafer expression (I oft think of those little complimentary wafers you get on the side of a coffee).

Interesting palate, a curious combination of a squeeze of liquid smoke over mulberry and blackberries. Earth, cloven spice, twists of cracked pepper. You can see the impression that a mere 6% Malbec has made on the wine.

Very Hither & Yon, very McLaren Vale. Terroir indeed. 91

Tasted on: Monday 6th December
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.hitherandyon.com.au/

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2016 / McLaren Vale / Shiraz

d'Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

08:30 Stu.

Oft been my pick of the d'Arenberg icons, tho' I think the impressive Ironstone Pressings may have pipped it in this release (even if the scores are in the same ballpark).

Has the usual mix of the cedary oak, but overriding - and really not able to escape from - the swathes of red fruit. It's backed up with tannin - and this combination of fruit, oak and the tannin suggest this will be in the realm of a 20+ year cellaring proposition. 91

Tasted on: Sunday 30th October, a Root to Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $65
Alcohol: 14.4%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://darenberg.com.au/

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2013 / Cabernet Sauvignon / McLaren Vale

Sunday, 5 March 2017

Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Merlot Cabernet Franc 2013

10:09 Stu.

A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, 56/44 respectively; spends 20m in Oak, all French and, of which, 90% is new.

Why do I tell you this? Because, yes, the oak is here - 90% new French couldn't be avoided. It supports black cherry, mulberry, throws a coffee note.

It's lighter of than body than you'd expect, given the oak and barely sub-15 abv, but it's no slouch. Tannin builds, it's a substantive wine, with the fruit and flavour a riot, charging through to the finish.

Expansive wine, seriously impressive, reinforces its status as one of Australia's upper echelon offerings. Shows what Merlot and Cab Franc can do, in the right terroir, the right hands. 95

Tasted on: Sunday 30th October, a Root to Flower day
Source: Sample
Price: $79
Alcohol:14.8%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://tapanappa.com.au

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2013 / Cabernet Franc / Merlot / Wrattonbully

Thursday, 2 March 2017

Shaw Vineyard Estate Cuvée Sparkling 2015

16:39 Stu.

No variety or blend composition listed, but I couldn't escape the pungent aroma of the grassy, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc emanating from the glass. Creamy citrus softens the blow, adding an extra dimension here. [So much for my Sav-dar, it's all Semillon - tho I thought Cuvée to mean 'blend'. ]

The palate is initially soft, citrus - again - segueing to a loose flow with a sweetened edge. Offers decent refreshment across the middle. Fresh, citrusy. 87

Tasted on: Sunday 30th October, a Root to Flower day

Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 10.5%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.shawvineyards.com.au/

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2015 / Canberra District / Semillon / Sparkling

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