Killerby Foundations Chardonnay 2017

Killerby is owned by Ferngrove winery, and whereas the owner produces great wines down in Great Southern, Killerby is a Margaret River focussed producer with a cellar door in Wilyabrup on the prime Caves Road.

Stonefruit, wafer oak, fig, somewhat delicate aromas - no bad thing in Chardonnay!

Spiced, creamy French oak, elements of Vanilla. Fine-bone acidity with a suggestion of textural width through lees stirring. Complexity here, contrast to the aromatic delicacy: stonefruit, lime, perhaps some ginger spice indicative of some barrel ferment character. 90 

Tasted on: Sunday 14th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.killerby.com.au

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Pizzini Prosecco 2018

Quince and bruised apple aromatics, melon, a hint of baked tart - rather slightly browning pastry.

Delicate zip, fine minerality - unlike many Prosecco it has a gentle tickle of petillence rather than the aggressive and voluminous bubbles.

Second taste, a line of citrus acidity, possessive of a good tickle across the palate. 89

Tasted on: Saturday 3rd November 
Source: Sample
Price: $21.50
Alcohol: 11.5%
Closure: Crown Seal
Website: https://www.pizzini.com.au

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Shaw Vineyard Estate Winemakers Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Bright and vibrant intro, all blue fruit and leaf at its heart. There's a drying, dusty element sitting, lurking in the background.

Smoothly medium bodied. The palate is a little off, the silken body somewhat offsetting it. Lacking a little in flavour - particularly compared to the intro. Reasonable, given the ask 87 

Tasted on: Friday 12th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://shawvineyards.com.au

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d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2016

Rich, chocolatey, a malty edge framing the wine. Oak on display, handled somewhat sensitively.

Unwilling to release the wine that it has nurtured through its formative years. A powerhouse, having a compelling presence: oak, spice - pepper in the main. 

Its tannin structure is forceful, the sudden onset reminding this is a wine of substance - and not for now. Possessing the structure to last, there's a slight flash of warmth, minor, from a generous vintage. The finish though, seemingly perpetual. 93

Tasted on: Saturday 8th December 
Source: Sample
Price: $75
Alcohol: 15%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.darenberg.com.au/

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Superfly Shiraz 2018

Solid youthful Barossan Shiraz, in a very modern vogue.

Caught something like a peanut brittle (?) aroma here, black fruit pastille, barest twist of black pepper. Fruits of the forest jam, medium bodied. Good freshness. 

Tannin and spice wrapped in a tandem drive through the palate. Good definition, length. Persistence and sustaining length. 90 

Tasted on: Tuesday 30th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://rock-of-wisdom.myshopify.com

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Heartland Directors' Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Compared with the Shiraz, this Cabernet conveys itself more varietal. It's tobacco, bay and chocolate - less of the immediate oak. 

More assured, medium veering to full bodied. Deep set black fruit, Mulberry and plum. The oak is evident here, robust, loses a little definition. Certainly assertive in flavour; firm and long on the finish. 91 

Tasted on: Sunday 14th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $33
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://heartlandwines.com.au

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Ballycroft Small Berry Shiraz French Oak 2015

Unusually gave this a good decant hour or two before opening. 

Remnants of toasty oak, deep and rich - honouring the Greenock terroir. Mulberry and plum, suggestion of aniseed.

Palate is more of the same, rich and luscious. The fruit is present, lavish in its presence. Generous length here. 92 

Tasted on: Sunday 14th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $47
Alcohol: 15.3%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.ballycroft.com/

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Silkwood Estate The Walcott Cabernet Malbec 2015

Not the best release, bretty, giving the appearance of raw and untreated wood. Palate-wise, it's a silken slip of a thing, pitched seasoning - cedar and black pepper, freshly milled. 

Black, briar fruit, violets. Tannin is fine, Just the issues with the aroma. 84 

Tasted on: Wednesday 31st October 
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.silkwoodestate.com.au/

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Rock of Wisdom Grenache 2017

The current trend towards making Grenache, in what I consider a less is more approach, is seemingly reaping dividends for the variety. Whilst that is anecdotal, at best, purely from a personal perspective the examples that cross the bench seem to allow the variety to shine and express themselves, free of the shackles of oak and, to a different degree, hang-time on the vine.

Here, whilst still clocking in at a more than respectable 14.5%, the berry and hibiscus notes flourish and emanate from glass. Background spice lurks, in the spectrum of what can broadly be considered ‘brown’ spice - descriptive, I know.

The palate has that succulence, and light-handedness, again very much in the modern vogue of Australian Grenache. Powdery and crunchy tannin blossoms further in the mouth, adding volume, substance and length to the wine. 

Acting as a vehicle for the carriage of flavour, savoury with with a fruit tinged outer. It’s a deceptive wine, in that whilst it may not have the substance, structure or weight of other examples, the indicative quality of fruit and resultant wine is expressed manifestly in generous length. 91

Tasted on: Thursday 1st November
Source: Sample
Price: $28
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://rock-of-wisdom.myshopify.com

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Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Reserve 2015

You could sense it coming. The increasing brand presence, confidence, and consistency. A premium release was surely always on the cards given the pedigree across the range and for quite some time now.

Here, subtle black fruit and aniseed twists on offer. For me, the magic happens on the palate, an exquisitely honed palate with fine-grained tannin. You'd like to say it leads a charge, except it seems to confidently saunter and gently flow.  

For a Cabernet dominant - being Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Shiraz (20%) and Cabernet Franc (20%) - wine it's a gentle slip of a thing, with a structure that assertively reveals its class. Superb. 94 

Tasted on: Saturday 6th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $110
Alcohol: 14.4%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://terreaterre.com.au

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Tuck's Ridge Turramurra Chardonnay 2016

It will be interesting to see where these wines are taken to, given the acquisition of the brand and vineyards by Montalto, and the intention for Grape tinkerer Simon Black to take on winemaking duties.

For now, these 2016 releases under the Tuck's Ridge brand remain poles apart from the Montalto Chardonnay under that label. Buttery, rich, creamed corn almost - regardless, heavy on the dairy. 

The palate, lavish with minerally, flinty hints sitting in the background. There are elements of stonefruit and a little citrus, yet seemingly the winemaker's hand has done all it can to show itself, rather than the fruit. 89

Tasted on: Saturday 24th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $50
Alcohol: 13.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://tucksridge.com.au/

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d'Arenberg Stephanie The Gnome with Rose Tinted Spectacles 2018

Perhaps Stephanie might like to get her eyes tested, pouring as much like a light red, than a Rosé. Berry accents on pour: strawberry, raspberry and a little toffee apple.

Cherry adds a play on the palate, it's fruity - not sweet mind - playful, and has enough about it in width and weight to keep things interesting - aided by fruit-driven length. Playful little - she is a gnome after all - minx. 89

Tasted on: Sunday 25th November 

Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.darenberg.com.au

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The Natural Wine Co. Shiraz 2018

Their website could do with a little SEO.

Fresh, raw, touch of blood and bone. There's fruit at the periphery, Mulberry and blackcurrant. There's violets, with spice - it's savoury, yeasty.

Soft, plush, touch of iodine. It's an easy going 'soif' style red. Product of its youth and vintage, tannin is barely a thought - a minor rasp at best.

Faint edge of anise, licorice, gentley ebbing to a finish. 88

Tasted on: Wednesday 28th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 14.5% 
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.natural-wine-co.com/

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Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2017

Beautiful vanilla and creme French oak here. Sits over the top of some perfectly ripe stonefruit. 

Toasty, spicy oak greets you and runs long on the palate. A spine of precise acidity its focal point, as if guided by laser.

That's probably best how to sum it up: exquisite, precise and unforced. Top tier (pun somewhat intentional) Chardonnay. 95 

Tasted on: Saturday 6th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $90
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://tapanappa.com.au

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St Hugo Shiraz 2015

St Hugo's way, lead with the oak (and it's French, all 70% of it). 

It's a marker, a house style if you wish. Blackcurrant, Plum, the vanillin oak - there, again. Black. Fruit and sweet oak remnants, singular and solid. Whether that oak settles into itself remains to be seen. 90+

Tasted on: Friday 5th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $54.99
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.sthugo.com

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Margan Aged Release Semillon 2013

Sitting there, reserved, the wine equivalent of arms and legs folded. Sullen. Hints, perhaps, of citrus and grass. Rock melon, maybe. 

The palate, livelier. There's a minerality, a tingle across the palate, a drying pucker. Freshening acidity - you get the impression it still has much to yield. 

At this early (ignore the fact it's 5) juncture it's hard to say. 91+ 

Tasted on: Friday 5th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $50
Alcohol: 11%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.margan.com.au

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Brand's Laira Blockers Chardonnay 2017

Cannot immediately recall too many Coonawarra Chardonnay across the bench. Perhaps Katnook and Hollick being those prompt some instant recall.

Here, Brand's Laira, part of the ever growing Casella stable, offers up a Chardonnay that's heavy set, oak and a creamy custard-vanilla frame dominate. 

The palate, chewy with remnants of citrusy acidity. Pulls a little short. Fair try. 86 

Tasted on: Friday 5th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Srewcap
Website: www.brandslaira.com

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Cook's Lot Cabernet Merlot 2016

Cabernet in the cooler margins, with some assistance from old mate Merlot. Softer, almost mellifluous manner, yet tannins are somewhat firmer than that might suggest. 

It comes across as more like a milk chocolate, mocha, with cedar, mint and a touch of tobacco. Beyond the tannin it finishes well - if a touch narrow. 89 

Tasted on: Thursday 4th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.cookslot.com.au

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Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2016

The unison of the earth and the flowers that grow in, spicey a hint of meatiness - whole bunch evident - combiner floral aspects: rose hip, hibiscus.

Lighter touch on entry, a fine-grain of mouth coating, powdery tannin. Gives length, stature and volume. Freshening acidity brings the wine home, paradoxically racing to a gentle conclusion 92 

Tasted on: Saturday 17th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $49
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.shawandsmith.com

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Liv Zak Syrah 2016

Liv Zak is a second label, of sorts, for COldstream (Yarra Valley) based Warramunda Estate.

Brambley mix of fruit, spice, suggestion of whole bunch. Invitingly fresh and vibrant, fruit at its core with a savoury frame. 

Feels slick, polished, a veneer of glossy black fruit with aniseed and black pepper twists. Sensuous and easy going, yet with enough gravitas to elevate it to more than a thirst quencher. 91  

Tasted on: Wednesday 28th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 13.6%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://warramundaestate.com.au

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Silkwood Estate The Bowers Shiraz 2015

Deep and robust Shiraz from Silkwood Estate of Pemberton, in Western Australia's South-East. 

Plums, a meaty - almost gamey - edge, gives it a firm and deep profile. Hints of pencil shaving, cloven spice and pepper add to the depth and allure. 

Light and supple, at odds to the aromatic depths it charts, a feint minerality. Freshness by way of Satsuma Plum. 89 

Tasted on: Saturday 24th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.silkwoodestate.com.au

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Robert Stein Riesling 2018

Always look forward to the new releases of Robert Stein Riesling, often coming as a trio (Dry, Off-Dry and Sweet). 

In 2018 the Dry instance carries its calling card of lemon grass and kaffir lime. The palate a touch broader and softer than I recall, more rounded citrus, a decent length of grapefruit acidity.

Good, but not quite the stature of precious releases. 91 

Tasted on: Friday 5th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://robertstein.com.au

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Pizzini King Valley Riesling 2018

Sly and the Family Stone’s “It’s a Family Affair” was the ear worm that naturally sprang to mind as I checked my assumed history of the Pizinni family along with that of winemaking up in North-East Victoria’s King Valley.

A region with a deep Italo-Australian heritage, a region originally planted to tobacco before many families saw the writing on the wall and replanted to grapes. 

The Pizinni’s planting their first in 1978 before making the first wine under their own name in 1994, under the guiding hand of patriarch Alfredo.

Beautifully aromatic Riesling, offering up an aroma as crisp and clean as I imagine the sub-alpine air of the King Valley, itself butting up to Australia’s Alpine range.

Citrus, lemongrass and hints of talcum waft from the glass - but the energy, for me, lies in the palate where a distinct minerality and verve provide the buzz from the go.

Has a width and semblance of textural presence compared to, say, the Clare or Eden Valleys. And nor should the King Valley taste like those other regional markers given the considerable distance and differences in topology.

Finishes with a citrus flourish, clean and long, on a drying finish. 91 

Tasted on: Thursday 1st November
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 11.7%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.pizzini.com.au

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d'Arenberg The Dry Dam Riesling 2018

Kaffir Lime, Granny Smith apple - skin and blossom - certainly a fragrant Riesling, and adding weight to previously aired thoughts on the quality of Riesling from the vintage. 

Exquisitely refreshing, piercing acidity, hints of a phenolic pinch. Latterly feels a little fleshy, a nice width and weight to the wine. Also carries through an element of peachy flavour with that to the finish. 92 

Tasted on: Wednesday 28th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 10%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.darenberg.com.au

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Bremerton Selkirk Shiraz 2016

I sank into its welcome black-fruited embrace as I approached the end of a week long "holiday" keeping the kids entertained. Aniseed accents added aromatic seasoning to its fruitsome flesh. 

It's quite a simple approach: black fruit, a little oak seasoning and powdery tannin make for a damn approachable wine. Set to go now, it's balanced and integrated - a good drinking proposition. 90

Tasted on: Thursday 4th October 

Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.bremerton.com.au

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Margan Chardonnay 2017

Full on ripe Hunter Chardonnay, dripping with what seems like honeyed pear drops, positively oozing at that. 

It carries that 'golden', somewhat treacley feel, fancy oak in the mix too. Lavish, lush in a weighty manner - although it pulls up a little short. 88 

Tasted on: Thursday 4th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $40
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.margan.com.au

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Bremerton Mollie & Merle Verdelho 2018

Verdelho has a reputation as somewhat of a workhorse like variety, offering up a veritable fruit salad of aromas and flavours - this example from the Langhorne legends Bremerton no exception.

Smells like a sweetened fruit juice, something like pineapple juice meets lemon squash. I can see how it would have its appeal for those of a sweeter persuasion! 

The fruit sweetness transfers to the palate, rolls around it nicely, has a decent thrust of flavour. It's thickly laid on, subtlety not necessarily its marker. Perhaps for those with, err, less subtle palates it would be the go. A gateway from Moscato perhaps. 87 

Tasted on: Thursday 4th October 
Source: Sample
Price: $17
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.bremerton.com.au

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Gartelmann Jesse Shiraz 2014

Deep set black fruit with oak remnants sitting around.

Slick and silken feel, black fruit sitting proud. Hints of aniseed, as if by a vein flowing through. Flow it does, has a nice balance, weight and energy for a wine just shy of 15%. 

Although it does feel like that balance has come at the expense of substance. 90 

Tasted on: Wednesday 3rd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 14.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.gartelmann.com.au

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Rymill gt Gewürztraminer 2018

Exhibits all the hallmarks of Gewürztraminer, by way of the musk and rosewater. It's a lighter take mind, and no worse for it. 

A Minerally edge is really the defining aspect to the palate, faint musk and something like a lychee bent running through. Lightness being the watchword, a subtle take on the style, earlier picking to achieve that. 88 

Tasted on: Wednesday 3rd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.rymill.com.au

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Huntington Estate Special Reserve Semillon 2017

Softer aromatics, the citrus and grassiness are kind of given, that's followed up by a softer bent of tropical fruit - honeydew melon meets something like peach juice.

The palate shows the softer tropical flow, with a steelier spine - as if to act as a guide. Unsure it necessarily offers too much more over the standard release. 90 

Tasted on: Wednesday 3rd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $32
Alcohol: 11.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://huntingtonestate.com.au

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Montalto Estate Teurong Block Chardonnay 2016

Greenish hue in the glass, and seems to evoke a green response aromatically, yet is all dripping ripe stonefruit. 

At turns both fleshy, yet clipped and crisp. It evokes a somewhat fleshy and sensuous response.

There's a citrus acidity running deep, both lime and grapefruit. Zesty fresh, with a drying phenolic edge that serves to pinch and accentuate the flavour. 

It's a fine wine, of focus and precision with an excellent tail of flavour. 94 

Tasted on: Wednesday 3rd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $60
Alcohol: 12.9%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://montalto.com.au

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Tim Adams Pinot Gris 2018

Has the delightful kiss of the barest of skin contact, a pale golden/ translucent onion skin blush, that I like in a Gris. 

Don't serve too chilled, else you'll suppress the delicate aromatics: blossom, Nashi pear (AKA 'papples' as they're known.around these parts, being a pear that looks like an apple). 

There's a textural stonefruit line that runs across the palate, more like a peach nectar - seemingly bringing with it a residual sweetness. Lends that width, in the way sugar is want. Temporarily prolongs the finish. Would work well with a dish carrying some spice, a decent Thai dish perhaps. 88 

Tasted on:Tuesday 2nd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.timadamswines.com.au

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Huntington Estate Special Reserve Merlot 2016

It's always with a fair degree of trepidation that I approach a Merlot sample. Do the viticulturist and winemaker understand understand the nuances of the variety in its chosen region? Or have they produced a generic dry red offering little varietal definition?

Huntington Estate traditionally used its Merlot in 'Bordeaux' blends, first producing it as a varietal in 2006 and opting to release as a 'Special Reserve' in exceptional vintages.

This 2016 release is classic Huntington Estate and typically Mudgee. Add varietal Merlot in the frame and you get mocha oak with a little tobacco thrown in. The tannin profile is exquisitely fine, it's the first thing I noticed as it floods across the palate. 

Not without a sense of freshness, backed up with a swathe of black fruit. Concludes with what can only be described as the Mudgee terroir carrying long on the finish. 91 

Tasted on: Tuesday 2nd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $38
Alcohol: 14.3%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://huntingtonestate.com.au

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Cook's Lot Pinot Gris 2018

I've never really quite understood nougat (or 'nugget' as I referred to it in my youth), save for its writ large here and offers appeal. 

Canteloupe melon, pear segments - more mineral on the palate than many a Gris offers. Has a little texture, bringing with it hints of citrus and tropical elements that bolster the profile. 

Certainly stands out from the crowd with respect to other Gris, and this somewhat straddles that Gris/gio territory. No bad thing mind. 91 

Tasted on: Tuesday 2nd October 
Source: Sample
Price: $23
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.cookslot.com.au/

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Angullong Fossil Hill Barbera 2017

Barbera is not exactly a common variety here in Australia, and appears to fair well in some rather diverse regions. Here, Orange - and off a vineyard situated at 600-620 metres - shows the variety well in a cool climate - for Australia at least - guise. 

It's all a mix of Berry fruit married to savoury, woody/herbal hints. There's a remnant of oak in play too. Delightfully poised, with a medium bodied aspect, black fruit with liberal twists of pepper. 

Tannins are fine, powdery, coating the mouth and adding to a generous finish. We opted to pair this with a vegetarian lasagne, where it was more than a match for the juicy, tomato laden construct. Go here, easily. 92 

Tasted on: Monday 1st October 
Source: Sample
Price: $26
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.angullong.com.au

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Bremerton Tamblyn 2016

Bordeaux with a little South Australia thrown in, being a blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Shiraz, 12% Malbec and 7% Merlot.

Sure packs in a bit for its $18, with Cabernet off the bat and providing the framework around which the rest hangs. Red berries with that lick of cassis and unmistakable lift of Malbec in the mix.

Soft and fleshy with fine tannins. You'd happily go here for $18. 90

Tasted on Saturday 29th September
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: 

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Lana Prosecco NV

A subsidiary label for Pizzini, named after the town that bears the same name, located in the Trentino Alto-Adige region of North East Italy. Looking to showcase more old world techniques.

Light bead, sitting pretty and golden in glass. Apple skins, pear, yeasty autolysis and a touch of citrus. 

Spring fresh, it opens up with a large volume of wine. Dry with citrus hints, gently tugging along. 88 

Tasted on: Sunday 25th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 11.5%
Closure: Crown Seal
Website: https://www.pizzini.com.au

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Castle Rock Estate Porongurup Riesling 2018

Wonderfully fragrant Riesling from Western Australia's Great Southern. It's all lemongrass and kaffir lime, from aromatics alone I was expecting a tropical fruit sorbet of sorts. 

It's bracing, with a fine acidic crunch and spread across the palate, all lime juice in a length of great satisfaction. It goes fantastically now, yet that natural acidity could yet see its best days ahead of it. 

Impressive in many ways. 93 

Tasted on: Tuesday 20th November 
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 11.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://castlerockestate.com.au

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